The revolution has started but NYT has not realized it yet. Perfumes ingredients originated from biotechnologies (often genetically engineered yeasts) are the new frontier of money making for the industry. That is because they can obtain patents (the right to be unique producers) not only on new molecule issued from the biotechnologies but also on the genetically engineered yeasts that will produce existing molecules in a cheaper way, killing in such a way competitors.
What consumers do not know is that these molecule are not only certified â€śnaturalâ€ť by the industry but also â€śorganicâ€ť, through their certifying branches such as Ecocert.
Many a natural perfumer has taken the way of using natural isolates without due proof that they do come from fractional distillation of essential oils rather than from the biotechnologies.
To give an example, Benzaldehide is distilled from prune kerns. It is the smell of bitter almond. It is an essential oil composed by 98% of Benzaldehide. It costs 400 USD a kg. It is called Benzaldehyde ex prunus.
Benzaldehide from bio technologies costs 3 times less. The smells are identical.
Who is buying the natural Benzaldehide?
Ask Robertet, they are about the only ones to produce it. I am buying it, who else does?
Natural isolates (so called) are a trap for natural perfumers. It allows them to make perfumes looking like main stream fragrances, guaranteeing them applauses and sales, but are they really natural anymore?
When I enquired with the producers of these molecules about the origin material (from which it is made) and the nature of the yeasts, I had a dry response that all the process was protected by patent.
This is a real problem.
To me, the only solution is that perfumers will publish online their ECLIP list. The complete list of possible ingredients in perfumes, clarifying not only what they use from these, but also what they do NOT use.
As you can see from the page of ECLIP perfumers, the proposal was not very well received.